Villa Mystique

I was offered a free villa in Hollywood, but I said “No thank you; I prefer to live in Italy”, said the late Italian film composer, Ennio Morricone. Born in 1928 in Rome, under Italian fascist rule, Morricone was the son of a professional trumpeter and small textile shop owner, and he would grow up in the bohemian and artistic rioni of Trastevere. There he’d be admitted to a school in third grade with a certain Sergio Leone, who would later become the iconoclastic filmmaker who, with numerous scores from Morricone in his revolutionary pictures, including A Fistful of Dollars (1964), became the pioneer of the spaghetti Western genre, but with many thanks to the inimitable film music mastery conjured up by Morricone.

His mythical composing repertoire was a revered style that would influence Hollywood’s fabled past, but his personal psyche belonged to Italy. A Fistful of Dollars – whipcracks, bells, gallops and all – became Morricone’s first major soundtrack, but it was written under the pseudonym of Dan Savio, as he later commented that he couldn’t use his name because the producers wanted it to appear as an American production. The incorporation of period jazz phrases in his score for the Leone-directed epic crime drama film Once Upon a Time in America, 1984, was deemed to emphatically set the right historical context – a feat that only propelled his vogue in Hollywood, causing esteemed directors to want his virtuoso film composing work to be at closer convenience.  But Morricone was never going to be wooed into living in the Hollywood fishbowl, because he was the antithesis of rootless – a spirit that was exemplified by his refusal to learn English, which perhaps only slightly hindered his workings overseas – he was instead the touchstone for Italian cinema, composing many scores.  

In 1991, the Rome-based Italian film director Mauro Bolognini released his final piece, the soft-core erotic drama film La villa del venerdi (Husbands and Lovers). The film is a transposition of the eponymous novel written by the Rome-born author Alberto Pincherie under his pseudonym of Alberto Moravia – distinguished by his exploration of modern sexuality, there are many illustrious films that were adaptations of his novels, including The Two Woman, 1960, directed by Vittorio de Sica and starring Sophia Loren.  

The 1990s were a decade where the Tiber flowed with electricity. Sports, economics, corruption and fashion all obliterated government codes, thereby granting cinema the license to explore unhinged themes. However, despite the grunge phase, Italian glamour and passion were never stilted, and the period was fantastically exemplified by the beautiful and minimalist dress flair that characterises Italy. In the film, desire, seductive and erotic tendencies, as well as their attire, were played out by the beauteous Julian Sands, who was wearing Armani, and the Vogue favourite Joanna Pacula. And so, with a film rich with bona fide Italian aptitude, it was no surprise that Morricone was chosen and relished in dreaming up the film’s music. All of this beauty, power, sensuality and mystery were tailor-made to showcase their virtues in both Hollywood and Portofino, so much so that there were many exemplars of bold-faced names to engage and deposit tales in each, as if there were telepathic traits that bound them together, thus upscaling their rapacious co-dependency.

Aristotle Onassis with guests Jaqueline Kennedy and Franklin Roosevelt Jr., on board his yacht Christina in the Mediterranean, 1963. (Photo courtesy of AP Photo/File via Alamy).

In 1961, the Robert Mulligan-directed American comedy film Come September was released. Despite Marilyn Monroe being tipped to play the role of Lisa Fellini – a chic, Italian mistress comedienne – they opted for the voluptuous and undeniably beautiful Rome-born actress Gina Lollobrigida, who played opposite Hollywood’s leading man Rock Hudson (Robert L. Talbort), who would come every September to Portofino. The couple would use Hudson’s Riviera hideaway, Villa delle Palme, which bordered the picturesque and somnolent fishing village of Santa Margherita, as a retreat for their casual love affair. Upon arrival, Hudson enters the drive in his shipped-over Rolls-Royce and, aside from his sweater, which is devoid of a T-shirt or shirt underneath (Hudson is able to pull it off), his attire does emit a sporting guise, but when frolicking with his mistress, it does give his carousal of Lollobrigida a certain vigour.

However, without prior notice, he next arrived in July to discover that his villa is now bustling with young women visiting. It transpires that, in Hudson’s 11-month absence, the villa’s portly majordomo had turned it into a rather opulent seaview hotel that accommodated various leagues of travelling students. However, in keeping with the film’s comedic nature, neither Hudson nor Lollabrigida is tremendously bothered by this unexpected interference; instead, they romantically wander through La Piazzetta, the beautifully quaint main square of Portofino, and other idyllic destinations along the Riviera de Levante while sharing an absurdity of wit.

Founded in 1954 by Lorenzo Raggio, La Gritta was not only Portofino’s most enviable fish restaurant but also credited as being the first American bar in Italy. It’s launch coincided with the release of the indisputably stylish romantic film The Barefoot Contessa, with the main protagonist, the dancer Maria Vargas, played by Ava Gardner, apparently based on Rita Hayworth, who along with her father was one of the “Dancing Cansino’s”, and was also known as the glamorous Hollywood wife of Prince Ali Khan. In those days, Portofino was a beguiling fishing village – a sanctum of love, discreet splendour and mischief, especially for the burgeoning jet set.

Humphrey Bogart, the leading man in The Barefoot Contessa, would be enticed by Portofino after filming there and contributed to luring in Hollywood’s preeminent stars in the form of Rex Harrison, Clark Gable and John Wayne. The Welsh-born movie icon Richard Burton was so enamoured by the landscape and social atmosphere of Portofino that he proposed – for the first time – to Elizabeth Taylor at the panoramic Hotel Splendido. Now named the Belmond Hotel Splendido, the chic monument is imperiously elevated by the tropical verdure of the hillside, which grants the most exquisite view over the harbour and beyond across the blue-green crystal waters of the Gulf of Tigullio. It’s a wondrous backdrop that could only magnify such proposals.

The Duke and Duchess of Windsor cross a square in Portofino, Italy, 1951. (Photo courtesy of Associated Press via Alamy)

The espadrille shoe propitiator Rex Harrison bought a villa in the hills, where Noel Coward and John Gielgud would visit for jocularity, while his multifaceted, silk-scarfed wearer daredevil son, Noel, would often sit on a makeshift stool on the cobbles in front of La Gritta and pluck the guitar after sunset to a blithe audience – a nocturnal, nonchalant pastime rendition that was so indicative of Portofino’s carefree ambiance. But along with this jovial cajoling between locals, Hollywood stars and early jet setters, behind private frontiers, scandal and even tragedy are never far away.

Built in 1874 by Henry Herbert, 4th Earl of Carnarvon (1831-1890), the palatial Villa Altachiara (Italian rendering of Highclere) stood atop a steep cliff overlooking the Mediterranean. Commissioned in lieu of retreating to warmer climes on the Italian Riviera in summer, after his death it was left to his second wife, Elsie Howard, from whom, after her death in Italy, it was passed to her first son, Aubrey Herbert. Despite progressive vision loss, his life-achievement list would trump most of the English gentry without such impairments. But he died of sepsis at age 43 – a natural death; however, if one believes in foredoomed deaths, could the five-month gap to his half-brother George Herbert, 5th Earl of Carnarvon, perishing be the moment when you connect Villa Altachiara with the jinxed discovery of the tomb of the Pharaoh Tutankhamun?

“Motor Carnarvon”, the 5th Earl’s groundbreaking legacy in financing and orchestrating the uncovering of the tomb of Tutankhamun, is understandably at the forefront of it, and his extraordinarily debonair international lifestyle in the early 20th century cannot be overlooked for inspiration in today’s increasingly fettered existences. And so, after living a fearless life in unparalleled style, it was incredible that, aged only 56, he would be undone by an infected mosquito bite in his frequent Cairo refuge of the Savoy Continental Hotel. Whether it be swerving his Panhard Levasseur motor to avoid a cart pulled by oxen near Bad Schwalbach, Germany in 1903, or tirelessly financing and conducting the dig for Tutankhamun with Howard Carter for over 5 years in the Valley of the Kings, Luxor, often undertaken in unbearable solar radiation temperatures, was he responsible for bringing the curse of Tutankhamun to Villa Altachiara?

The 5th Earl of Carnarvon with Egyptian officials, Luxor, Egypt, 1922. (Photo courtesy of Heritage Image Partnership Ltd via Alamy)

Returning to the fertile dominion of Portus Delphini, or dolphin’s harbour, founded by the ancient Romans – hence the name Portofino – Maurizio, the son of Lorenzo Raggio, who started as a whippersnapper, was immersed in the carefree existence of bold-faced names; at La Gritta, they only closed when the last customer left, often requiring him to step in and help at ungodly hours. Half of the La Gritta goers had tabs and, in sync with Portofino’s relaxed spirit, they were permitted to pay at the end of the year, with bills often exceeding a million – even tips were known to reach that amount. One night Rex Harrison left the waiters a million lira.

Now in his 20s, Maurizio recounts that he was awakened early by a telephone call.

“There is someone looking for you, Maurizio,” said Gian, La Gritta’s barman.

“Who?”

“I will hand her the phone.”

“Hello, Maurizio.”

Maurizio immediately recognised the voice of supermodel Margaux Hemingway.

Margaux asked Maurizio to come to La Gritta for breakfast. He, of course, would oblige. Having earlier in the week met Terence Ford and Margaux, he would expect Ford to be there too.

“And where is Terence?” said, Maurizio.

“He is back in London.”

“Why?”

“I sent him away.”

Pleasantly surprised, he asked, “And why?”

“To be alone with you” replied Margaux candidly. “Are you happy?”

Margaux would spend another ten days in Portofino, and one could only speculate about what spirit filled those days.

First lady Jackie Kennedy chats with Gianni Agnelli, Italy, 1962. (Photo courtesy of Keystone Press via Alamy)

The brothers Domenico, Mario, and Corrado Agusta purchased Villa Altachiara in the 1960s; they were the sons of Count Giovanni Agusta, the Italian helicopter magnate. Count Corrado Agusta would naturally frequent La Gritta and be friendly with Maurizio’s parents. Maurizio enjoyed life in all its declensions, and after finishing third in the regional karate championship in Genoa, the rumble of helicopter blades turned his stare to a blue and silver Agusta A109 piercing the clear blue sky towards the helipad at Villa Altachiara. Later, playing backgammon with a friend in La Gritta, he looked up to witness a tall, elegant woman whose beauty only radiated further from her striking auburn hair and bejewelled configuration.

Countess Francesca Vacca Agusta was a former model and wife of Corrado, and Maurizio would recognise her. Still in his mid-twenties, Maurizio did know Francesca was separated from Corrado, whose age must have been 40. There were many tales filled with jet-set flair, especially when Gianni Agnelli, a friend of Francesca, telephoned the villa at sunrise. The butler woke up and informed Francesca that “Avvocato Agnelli is on the line.”

“Tell him he cannot bother people at six-thirty in the morning,” she said and hung up. At 7:30, Francesca ordered the butler to call Agnelli. They reached him, and he asked if he could park his small helicopter on the helipad.

“Of course you can”. ”Magnificent!” exclaimed Gianni. “You and Maurizio are invited to luncheon on the F100!”

Maurizio and Francesca would endure an on-and-off union for years, with both even being embroiled in laundering £10 million of bribes for former Italian prime minister Bettino Craxi and having to flee to Mexico. Francesca would later be extradited and return to Italy.

Despite apparent differences, Corrado left Francesca a significant lump of money, including Villa Altachiara, which she was known to use with her Mexican companion, Tirso “Tito” Chazaro. However, in 2001, while at the villa, she went missing. Thought to be dressed only in a bathrobe and mismatched slippers and last seen on the veranda of the villa, she was never seen again. Three weeks after her disappearance, her body was found washed up on the beach of Toulon on the French Riviera. Many conspiracy theories have been voiced, but perhaps this unsolved tragedy could well be a dark tale with roots stemming from disturbing the peace of King Tut. In these desirable resorts occupied by the crème de la crème of discerning society, it’s never going to hold an untainted history, but what it has shown in history is that it’s a fabled place, full of glamour and mystique, which is why its affinity with Hollywood is enduring and profound.