Forever Blue

Following Sir Anthony Eden’s resignation in January 1957, Harold Macmillan became the Conservative Party’s incumbent leader and, naturally, Prime Minister. He succeeded Eden in the political sense and, as a statesman, he was the most important dignitary to bespeak suits among the classic menswear denizens of Mayfair. To the detriment of the relationship between parliament and the tailoring houses, Macmillan was the last bona fide bespoke Savile Row prime minister, the word bespoke having its origins in the fact that a certain piece of cloth was “spoken for” by a client. For a while, his spoken for fabric shared a shelf with the cloth that John F. Kennedy had selected. At the height of the Cold War, John le Carré’s commissioned fabrics were on another ledge at the John Morgan & Co atelier at 5 Albemarle Street, London. Whether they wore the same shade when le Carré translated at a meeting between a senior German politician and Macmillan remains uncertain, but what is certain is that JFK and Macmillan both wore impeccable blue suits as they walked down the Perron stairs at Government House, Hamilton, Bermuda, in 1961.

JFK’s visage was one of insouciance; he would glide unperturbed during taxing state visits. It was his natural demeanour, but his unstuffy style, which was a totem of much-needed youthfulness, was in fact tantamount to the emerging mood of liberation in the early ‘60s. JFK eschewed double-breasted suits and instead opted for a more streamline configuration. He always wore single-breasted suits with long, slim lapels, jetted hip pockets, that were ventless. The trousers were flat-fronted with a slim leg and featured cuff buttons. He rarely deviated from his white shirt, and the white handkerchief in his welted breast pocket was so neatly folded that its tip only peeked above the pocket line, perhaps symbolising his self-effacing manner. He had an extensive repertoire of blue suits, even of the pinstripe sort, as did Macmillan. The last British leader in office to sport a moustache and be an enthusiastic pipe and cigar smoker, there is evidence to suggest that, along with his immaculate dress, often in blue which conveys confidence, this defused Macmillan’s shyness, a trait that was a troublesome snag in his personality that he had to overcome to govern the country.

A well-crafted blue suit undoubtedly elicits power in terms of authority, but it also has the ability to promote an invigorating atmosphere. On October 20, 2012, Frankel, arguably the most talented equine superstar to have lived in the realms of horse racing, was sipping on a water bucket in the winner’s enclosure after triumphing in the Champions Stakes at QIPCO British Champions Day at Ascot. In the paddock, flanked by a stand of worshippers, Sir Henry Cecil, trainer, and Prince Khalid Abdullah, owner, are conversing, marvelling and gazing into the face of their exalted colt. Indisputably the most well-loved figure in horse racing at that time, Cecil is sporting his trademark blue suit, royal blue shirt, navy cardigan, blue and yellow patterned tie, and brown fedora. It’s a poignant moment for a myriad of reasons, but there’s an enchantment that the blue suit possesses, and it can only enhance the feeling of this wondrous scene.

It is wise not to overcomplicate the blue suit outfit. The choice of outlandish shirts in terms of colour and pattern and extravagant shoes with large platforms never blend well. As Cecil demonstrated, the underrated royal blue-hued shirt adds a touch of sophistication while remaining unpretentious. Cary Grant, the venerated leading man in old Hollywood, exuded this aura. It came from within him; as he said about style in 1962, “Simplicity, to me, has always been the essence of good taste.” Starring alongside the accomplished Scottish-born actress Deborah Kerr in An Affair to Remember (1957), Grant wears a navy worsted suit, which notably carries him from the afternoon into the ship’s New Year’s Eve dance.

The Alexander Kraft Monte Carlo label embodies Grant’s aforementioned sentiment about style. Founded by Alexander Kraft, it has always distinguished itself by using a limited palette of colours. The four include navy, light grey, caramel, and ecru. As mentioned, the blue suit can be pigeonholed for formality, but the blue suit collection of AK MC is refined to eliminate any stiffness and is capable of performing in a myriad of environments. Crafted from a textured navy worsted wool, the AK MC Signature jacket which is part of a three-piece suit and features a half-canvas construction with a partial lining – which manifests lightness – a key attribute when hurrying from meeting to meeting in warmer climates in La Défense, Paris.

For any classic tailoring design, cloth is always at the forefront of your consideration. Even for your companions, the quality of the cloth always discreetly transcends that touch of class in terms of suit appearance. But in addition, its climate virtues set it apart from other fabrics on the market. The navy tropical super 150s worsted Signature jacket, along with matching Riviera trousers and waistcoat, is a very special addition to the AK MC collection. The “tropical” worsted weave not only transmits elegance, which is only elevated by Loro Piana, the inimitable mill, but it also benefits from those permeable attributes to stay cool in hot temperatures. April presents a diverse range of weather conditions, so it requires you to be cunning when selecting suitable fabrics for your blue suit apparel. If you find yourself in a quandary, the blue sartorial range at AK MC, which also allows you to experiment with mix-and-match pieces, essentially caters to the discerning gentleman who criss-crosses around Europe, attending both important meetings and high-society events.